Cleaning, packing, and lighting a pipe by Joe Hampton

As far as stem oxidation goes, probably most do this already, but in case they don't...I just take some toothpaste that contains baking soda and rub it on the oxidized stem with a little water and wipe off with a Kleenex.  It doesn't take it all out but most of it.    I've always loaded a pipe in thirds (1/3, 1/3 and 1/3).  For the first third, tamp down very lightly, the second third-a little more firm until it bounces back-and the final time more firm still. I then apply a 'circular' 'false light' until the entire surface glows. When you apply the lighter flame to the tobacco at first, you want to trace a circular motion around the top of the bowl to get all the tobacco lit evenly all the while drawing on the mouthpiece. The first time you fire up your pipe is generally the 'false light' and will usually go out. Tamp it down gently after the first false light. Then apply a circular light the second time-same as the first and tamp it down again. Apply the third and final light same as first two. Tamp it down gently, then engage the final light. If you aren't interrupted with mindless chatter (like at a pipe club meeting), you can enjoy the entire bowl without having to relight.  Obviously there are always variables, such as type of tobacco, moisture content of the tobacco and the pipe itself.  Generally however this technique is the best I've found in 42 years of pipe smoking.    When breaking in a new pipe, there are a number of opinions on how to smoke the first bowl. Some recommend coating the bottom of the bowl with honey prior to smoking. Others recommend only smoking 1/3 of a bowl for the first two or three times, while others smoke an entire bowl from the onset every time.  I've tried all three and, for me, the last method is the best one and maybe the most common. For that first bowl I recommend McClelland's #5100 tobacco blend as it is not only a great tobacco but a great way to break in a new pipe.

Return to Tips and Tricks Page